Page 13

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johnleeke
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Page 13

Postby johnleeke » August 2nd, 2011, 5:52 pm

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jlindtner
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Re: Page 13

Postby jlindtner » August 13th, 2011, 12:12 pm

@Glass: Clean & Salvage
I label all glass so it gets reinstalled in the exact location where it has lived over the window’s history. This way the last window glazed from the bunch I’m working on isn’t the one getting all of the new or replacement glass. Also, it eliminates the confusion of which side of the glass was inside or out or the orientation of the window pane.

Cleaning old glass can be a delicate procedure. Once removed from the sash glass should have time to soak in water and a cleaning agent (Simple Green) to help soften the remaining glazing and paint on it. Laying it down on a cushioned surface such as carpet padding while cleaning it is essential. A razor can be used to remove paint and glazing around the edges. Razors should be sharp and changed frequently to avoid scratching the glass. 0000 steel wool can also be used to clean glass. Caution should be used with this approach since debris that can scratch the glass can get stuck in the steel wool.

jlindtner
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Re: Page 13

Postby jlindtner » August 13th, 2011, 12:16 pm

@Sash Dis-assembly
Sometimes a rare earth magnet can help in finding pins, nails, and screws located in the window sash.

Patrick Roach
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Page 13

Postby Patrick Roach » August 16th, 2011, 10:05 am

@Chemical:

Restrict types of chemicals to those permitted (i.e., solvents only, no acid/alkali) for the substrate material in question. Consider containment, spill and runoff management requirements, as these are often required by regulations.

Include cleaning and refitting methods and requirements for window hardware.

@Accuracy:

Hand-crafted assemblies may necessarily not be a precise match. Provide a standard based on structural and visual requirements; dimensional tolerances could be used and should correspond to this, but measuring to the micron may be difficult in field conditions when assessing completed work. "No perceptible variation in surface plane by sight or touch" seems a bit of a soft standard, admittedly, but it would seem that this would describe a good alignment of new surfaces to existing.

barnlover
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Re: Page 13

Postby barnlover » September 1st, 2011, 2:00 am

@Chemical
I really like the non-toxic soybean or citrus paint removers but so far I have only found them in gel form so they work best on flat surfaces or removing the window part like a sash to a surface to work on. After much experimenting with various different types of paint removers, I finally settled on a non-toxic paste type stripper that can be used on both vertical or horizontal surfaces. Care has to be taken as one paint stripper I tried, let off an ammonia smell that was irritating and made working in the same room a problem. The best way to apply either of these paint removers is with an appropriate size disposable chip brush. Foam brushes can break down using some of the strippers. To help the paint remover work longer and not dry out, I apply plastic wrap or plastic sheeting. On the cheap you can use plastic shopping bags or garbage bags.

@Glass:Clean and Salvage
Clean glass with vinegar, hot water, automotive glass cleaner, commercial or household glass cleaner?
In museum or historic/unique houses, new glass should be etched with the date as to not confuse it as original or at least give an idea to future stewards of historic and old buildings.

@Heavy Paint
It really depends on how many layers of paint and how well they are adhered to the surface. At some point, you at least have to take down a few layers to in some manner to get a smooth or smoother finished surface.
How effective is dipping? One of the problems with non-heat removal methods is that all the loose paint can make a sticky mess and water tends to be the best way to clean up the item but it can raise the grain to a degree. Dipping can cause raised grain or frayed wood that calls for more sanding which may remove some of the definition of detail.

@Accuracy
The repairer must take into account how visible the detail will be; if very visible, match is vital to the character usually but if the detail is not highly visible the repair can be off to a degree.
Close to exact is defined on who you ask. I tend to favor using the term replicate or match instead.


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