Weatherstrip, Ribbed Metal & Rubber Gasket, Test W2 (draft)

Energy Performance Testing of 7 Windows
bobyapp
Posts: 22
Joined: April 25th, 2011, 11:17 am

Weatherstrip, Ribbed Metal & Rubber Gasket, Test W2 (draft)

Postby bobyapp » December 20th, 2011, 3:20 pm

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Author: Bob Yapp
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Title of Treatment: Weatherstrip, Ribbed Metal & Rubber Gasket
Class of Treatment: [ ] Maintain, [ ] Stabilize, [ ] Repair, [x] Upgrade, [ ] Exception
Type of Treatment: [ ] Traditional, [x] Contemporary, [ ] Conservation

Condition to be Treated:
Air infiltration around primary double hung window sashes

Description:
This system with interlocking metal at the meeting rails and a ribbed metal flange for creating a track appears to an early double hung window weather stripping system, according to installations with patent dates back to the 1890's, and late 19th century advertising. It can be considered traditional as well as contemporary since all of the materials are still available and in active use. WPSC air infiltration testing showed this system to meet or exceed all current energy codes including the 2012 IECC, when it was used with weather stripped exterior storm and rubber tubing at the bottom rail of the lower sash, check/meeting rail and top rail of upper sash.

Typical Procedure:

1. Check sash for side to side play in the jamb opening. This can vary between 1/8" and 3/8" on well maintained windows. If the side to side play exceeds 3/8" consider either a jamb repair or adding wood of a like specie and age to each side of the sash to compensate. If adding wood to the sash sides, the sash cord plough (routed groove and knot hole) will need to be re-routed. Check play in sashes from top to bottom. In order for the check/meeting rails to meet properly in the middle there needs to be no more than 1/4" and no less than 1/8' play, top to bottom, when both sashes are in place.

2. Make a new parting stop. Rip to size and slot the interior face for the outside edge of the flange of the ribbed metal track of the lower sash. Prime and paint the stop. Countersink the stop for a #6 screw. The parting stop is not nailed back in, as traditionally done, but screwed in so it can be easily removed for future maintenance of the sashes and jamb.

<Photo: caption: Original 1892 parting stop and new with slot for metal track flange>

3. Rout groves for the weatherstrip rib with a slotting bit sized to fit the rib, on both sides of each sash. The lower sash groves are closer to the interior face of the sash, the upper sash groves are closer to the exterior face.

4. Rout a slot in the meeting rail of the upper sash, locate it dead center, sized to friction fit the rubber tube weather stripping. Slot the bottom edge of the lower sash bottom rail and the top edge of the upper sashes top rail.

<Photo. caption: Typical rubber tube weather stripping>

<Photo. caption: Rubber tube weather stripping installed in the check/meeting rail of upper sash>

5. Cut four metal, ribbed/flange track pieces to a length the height of each sash plus 3/8", with tin snips. Cut an angle on the bottom of the two lower sash tracks that matches the angle of the sill.

6. Pre-drill holes between the corrugations of the metal track for attaching the tracks to the sides of the jambs. Use a bit that is slightly smaller in diameter than the head of the #4 sheet metal screw and bigger than the diameter of the screw threads; this over-sized hole creates a counter sink in the thin metal and allows for adjustment of the track when installing the sashes. For the two lower sash tracks drill one hole 1/4" down from the top and 1" up from the bottom and then one in the middle.

7. Cut out the two upper sash tracks for the sash pulleys. Put the tracks in place and mark the track for the top and bottom of the pulleys. Cut at the two marks all the way to the rib with tin snips. Score several times against the rib between these two cuts with a sharp utility knife. Bend this cut metal several times back and forth until it breaks loose. Dress the raw edges with a bastard file. Pre-drill the upper tracks, with the same method as used on the lower tracks. Drill one hole 1" from the top one, one 1/2" above the pulley, one 1/2" below the pulley, one in the middle and one 1/4" from the bottom.

<Photo. caption: Screws go between these corrugations.>

<Photo. caption: 1892 track system cut out around pulley with #4 sheet metal screws. >

8. Install the rubber tube gaskets into the bottom rail of upper sash, meeting/check rail of upper sash and top rail of upper sash, with a stiff, 1-1/2" putty knife with the two outside corners of the putty knife rounded off so the corners do not cut into the rubber tube gasket. Apply a small amount of silicon caulk into the 3/32" slot at all three rails. The tube gasket has a t-flange. insert one side of the "T" into the slot and carefully friction fit the other side of the "T" into the groove with the putty knife. Cut the tube gaskets off where the meet the parting stop and/or jamb. Wipe off any silicon residue with a small amount of paint thinner to assure there is no pure silicon where the rails are to painted around the tube gaskets.

9. Attach sash ropes or chains to the upper sash and slip the tracks into their slots over the sash cords. Ease the sash, with tracks, into the upper opening and screw the track to the jamb with #4 sheet metal screws. Test for ease of operation and adjust track as needed. Cut the ends of the rubber tube weather stripping on the upper sash meeting rail and top rail so they just touch the tracks on both sides.

10. Install new or original parting stop, with flange slot facing inward, using a #6 screw.

11. Attach sash ropes or chains to the lower sash and slip the tracks into their slots over the sash cords. Ease the sash, with tracks, into the lower opening and into the parting stop slot. Screw the track to the jamb with #4 sheet metal screws. Test for ease of operation and adjust track as needed. Cut the ends of the rubber tube weather stripping on the lower rail so it just touches the tracks on both sides.

12. Test upper and lower sashes for ease of operation and install a sash lock that brings the meeting rails close enough together to compact the rubber tube weather stripping at the meeting rail.

13. (optional) If air can be felt at outside of meeting rails, add small felt or rubber patch over this area with small screw to the top of the lower sash's check/meeting rail.

Materials:

· Weatherstrip, ribbed metal flange track
· # 4 sheet metal screws
· #6 x 1-1/4" screws
· Weatherstrip, rubber tube with T-flange or barbed flange
· Wood for parting stops, match original in species, grade and size

Quality of Results

Best Work:
A quality installation will be snug with a slight amount of play. The sashes should move up and down with one finger. The rubber tube weather stripping should just touch the tracks and the sash lock should pull the meeting rails snugly to the rubber tube weather stripping. A small patch, 1/2" x1/2" of felt or EPDM rubber is screwed over the only gap at the outside edges of the meeting rails. No air infiltration can be detected.

Inadequate Work:
Sashes have too much play; rubber does not touch metal tracks; window is hard to operate; sash lock does not bring meeting rails to the rubber; air infiltration is present because of sloppy work

bobyapp
Posts: 22
Joined: April 25th, 2011, 11:17 am

Photos for Metal Weather stripping

Postby bobyapp » January 3rd, 2012, 8:54 pm

See photos below.
Attachments
Grooved Parting Stop for Ribbed Track flange.JPG
Parting Stops
Ribbed Track Installed with #4 Sheet Metal Screws.JPG
Ribbed Track Screww Location.JPG
Ribbed Tracked Cut Out For Pulley.JPG
Santoprene installed in the upper sash meeting rail.jpg

bobyapp
Posts: 22
Joined: April 25th, 2011, 11:17 am

Re: Photos for Metal Weather stripping

Postby bobyapp » January 3rd, 2012, 8:55 pm

Another
Attachments
DSC05539.JPG

johnleeke
Posts: 384
Joined: April 13th, 2011, 7:34 pm
Full Name: John Leeke
Location: Portland
Organization: Historic HomeWorks
Permissions: Yes
Location: Portland, Maine
Contact:

Re: Weatherstrip, Ribbed Metal Flange & Rubber Gasket (draft

Postby johnleeke » January 13th, 2012, 5:09 pm

I think there is a step missing to install the rubber tube weatherstrip. Would you write it? Where does it go?
John
Standards Co-Founder
Standards Councilor
Standards Book Editor

http://www.HistoricHomeWorks.com

bobyapp
Posts: 22
Joined: April 25th, 2011, 11:17 am

Re: Weatherstrip, Ribbed Metal Flange & Rubber Gasket (draft

Postby bobyapp » January 16th, 2012, 1:42 pm

Using a stiff, 1-1/2" putty knife and pure silicon caulk, install the rubber tube gaskets into the bottom rail of upper sash; meeting/check rail of upper sash: top rail of upper sash. Be sure to round over the two outside corners of the putty knife so the corners do not cut into the rubber tube gasket. Apply a small amount of silicon caulk into the 3/32" slot at all three rails. The tube gasket has a t-flange. insert one side of the "t" into the slot and carefully friction fit the other side of the "t" into the groove with the putty knife. Cut the tube gaskets off where the meet the parting stop and/or jamb. Wipe off any silicon residue with a small amount of paint thinner to assure there is no pure silicon where the rails are to painted around the tube gaskets.

johnleeke
Posts: 384
Joined: April 13th, 2011, 7:34 pm
Full Name: John Leeke
Location: Portland
Organization: Historic HomeWorks
Permissions: Yes
Location: Portland, Maine
Contact:

Re: Weatherstrip, Ribbed Metal Flange & Rubber Gasket (draft

Postby johnleeke » January 17th, 2012, 5:24 pm

OK, I put in at step 8.
John
Standards Co-Founder
Standards Councilor
Standards Book Editor

http://www.HistoricHomeWorks.com


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