Adding Parting Stop-Test Window W2 (final)

Energy Performance Testing of 7 Windows
bobyapp
Posts: 22
Joined: April 25th, 2011, 11:17 am

Adding Parting Stop-Test Window W2 (final)

Postby bobyapp » January 9th, 2012, 4:55 pm

Author: Bob Yapp
Contributors:
References: Summit Testing #W2

Title of Treatment: Adding Parting Stop Where None Existed

Class of Treatment: [ ] Maintain, [ ] Stabilize, [ ] Repair, [x] Upgrade, [ ] Exception

Type of Treatment: [ ] Traditional, [x ] Modern

Condition to be Treated:

Wood Window #2 (W2) was missing parting stops between the upper & lower sashes as well as on the head jamb. There was no parting stop rabbet/groove.
Description: Add parting stop where missing.

Typical Procedure:

1. Rip clear pine stock to 9/16" x 9/16" x 72" (rough dimensions).

2. Surface plane ripped pine stock to 1/2" x 1/2"

3. Cut two sides and one head jamb parting stop to length

4. Pre-primed with oil alkyd primer and allowed to dry overnight.

5. Pre-drilled counter sunk holes in parting stop for a #7 x 1-1/4" brass, slotted flat head screw.

6. Used a marking gauge to get a perfect parallel line to set parting stop to. <Or, make a simple track-jig out of 1/4" plywood ripped to the required width of the track.>

7. Added a small bead of caulk to the backside of all three pieces to stop air infiltration behind the flush mounted stops.

8. Screwed the parting stops in place leaving a 1/16" side to side clearance for top and lower sash with a #7 x 1-1/4" brass, slotted flat head screw.

Materials:
• Clear pine stock
• Paintable acrylic, latex caulk with silicon
• Alkyd oil primer. 1/8 cup of boiled linseed oil added to one gallon for better penetration.
• 12, #7 x 1-1/4" brass, slotted flat head screw
• Boiled linseed oil based glazing putty

Quality of Results:
Parting stop caulked from behind and screwed to jamb tightly & parallel to the inside face of the jamb with 1/16" clearance for easy sash lifting.

Best Work:
With a jamb that has no rabbet/groove for the parting stop the best result is an installation that looks as if it did have a rabbet/groove and is straight and parallel to the inside face of the jamb. Stops are screwed on.

Inadequate Work:
No caulk behind the parting stop and not enough clearance for the sashes to operate properly. Nailed instead of screwed. Screwing allows later removal and re-installation for future maintenance.
Last edited by bobyapp on January 9th, 2012, 4:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

johnleeke
Posts: 374
Joined: April 13th, 2011, 7:34 pm
Full Name: John Leeke
Location: Portland
Organization: Historic HomeWorks
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Location: Portland, Maine
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Re: Adding Parting Stop Where None Existed-Test Window #W2

Postby johnleeke » January 9th, 2012, 6:54 pm

Looks great!

Someone at the Summit showed me a couple of strips of wood that were cut to the exact width needed for the sash track. The plan was to lay the strip against the jamb, and along the exterior stop, press the new parting stop against the strip, fasten the parting stop, then removed the strip. The intent was to easily get the tracks the exact correct width. I did not see if this technique was actually used, but it sounded good.
John
Standards Co-Founder
Standards Editor

http://www.HistoricHomeWorks.com

bobyapp
Posts: 22
Joined: April 25th, 2011, 11:17 am

Re: Adding Parting Stop-Test Window #W2 (draft)

Postby bobyapp » January 13th, 2012, 4:57 pm

That was me. Add it if you like. I used 1/4" plywood spacers.

johnleeke
Posts: 374
Joined: April 13th, 2011, 7:34 pm
Full Name: John Leeke
Location: Portland
Organization: Historic HomeWorks
Permissions: Yes
Location: Portland, Maine
Contact:

Re: Adding Parting Stop-Test Window #W2 (draft)

Postby johnleeke » January 17th, 2012, 5:34 pm

Added it.
John
Standards Co-Founder
Standards Editor

http://www.HistoricHomeWorks.com


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